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What can you do with inherited jewellery?

A guide to remodelling heirloom pieces — what can be reused, what it costs, and when I'll tell you to leave it alone.

Most of the inherited jewellery I see arrives the same way: in a small box, from a drawer, with the words “I never wear this, but I don't want to sell it.” The stones are often lovely; the design belongs to someone else's time.

In short

Stones can almost always be reset; gold is reused where it's structurally sound, or its value credited.

Most transformations fall between CHF 1,200 and CHF 4,000, with no upper limit.

Allow four to six weeks from approved design; you'll see it in 3D within about a week.

The first consultation, in Carouge or remotely, is complimentary and commits you to nothing.

Two loose lab-grown diamonds, emerald and princess cut, with tweezers and a loupe

Should I redesign inherited jewellery?

There's no single right answer, and I'll never push you towards one. Some pieces should stay exactly as they are. Others have been waiting years for a reason to be worn.

Clients who choose a transformation usually recognise one of these:

— The piece is beautiful, but they know they'll never wear it as it is.

— It doesn't fit, or it's damaged, and restoring its old form doesn't feel worth it.

— The stones and the metal are good, but together they don't suit them.

— Several small pieces — an odd earring, a thin chain, a ring too small to size — could become one.

— They want to pass something on, in a form the next person will actually wear.

Take your time. If you're unsure, wear the piece for a while first, or simply bring it in and talk. Nothing is decided at the first meeting.

A transformation isn't a way of erasing where a piece came from. It's a way of continuing it. Your jewellery already has a story; together, we give it a new chapter.

What can be reused?

Almost everything worth keeping can be carried forward:

Diamonds and gemstones — sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, pearls, family diamonds. Usually the heart of a transformation.

Gold — yellow, white or rose, in any carat. Reused directly, or credited towards the new piece.

Silver — its scrap value is modest, and I'll say so plainly, but it can still be credited.

Details — an engraving, a motif, the shape of a setting — can be echoed in the new design.

The first step is always an assessment: I look closely at the stones, check the metal, and tell you what I see — including anything that limits what we can do.

Can inherited gold be reused?

Sometimes, but not always — and I won't promise what I can't deliver.

Whether your gold can go directly into a new piece depends on its carat, the alloy, its condition, and whether it has been soldered or repaired before. Old solder and mixed alloys can weaken a new piece. So your gold is reused where it is structurally suitable; if there isn't enough, it's topped up with recycled gold from my supplier, whose bullion is 100% recycled and certified under the Responsible Jewellery Council's Chain of Custody standard.

Where direct reuse isn't right technically, the gold is valued at the current market price and credited towards your new piece. Either way, the family gold goes into what you end up wearing.

Can inherited diamonds and gemstones be reset?

Often, yes — it's the most common transformation I do. A diamond from a ring nobody wears becomes the centre of a pendant; sapphires from a single surviving earring become a pair of studs. An amethyst from a heavy old setting is reset in a plain bezel and looks like it was made this year.

Every stone is checked first for chips, wear at the edges and how securely it can be held in its new setting. Most pass. Occasionally damage only shows once a stone is out of its old setting — if so, I'll tell you before we go any further.

If the design needs more stones than you have — a halo around a family diamond, a matching pair — I use lab-grown diamonds, D–E colour and VVS clarity, so they sit comfortably beside the original. Natural diamonds are available whenever you prefer them.

Can an heirloom become an engagement ring?

Yes, and it's one of the most meaningful uses of a family stone. A grandmother's diamond crescent brooch, unworn for a generation, became a three-stone engagement ring. The engagement ring guide covers settings, metals and sizing in detail.

Can one piece be shared between family members?

Yes. An engagement ring became two matching pendants for two sisters — one of the transformations on the Before & After page. Stones and metal can be divided so each person keeps part of the same story.

Haromnie Ring - A ring set with a lab-grown diamond, photographed on a white dahlia

What clients actually do with their pieces

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A grandmother's amethyst ring, turned

Her grandmother's ring — a deep purple amethyst in a heavy claw setting, worn by nobody for years. The stone came out and went back in upside down: what was hidden underneath, the faceted pavilion, became the face of the ring, catching the light in a way the old setting never let it. The same stone her grandmother wore, seen from the other side.

One lost earring became three pieces

She lost one of her favourite sapphire earrings and kept the survivor in a drawer for years — too pretty to throw away, impossible to wear alone. Its two clusters came apart and became a pair of deliberately mismatched studs, and the diamond that sat between them went into a pavé halo on a fine chain. Three pieces from a single lost earring.

A diamond bangle became a cluster ring

A diamond-set bangle, inherited and never worn. The stones came out of their straight row and regrouped as a cluster ring — the same diamonds, rearranged from a line into something with movement. Out of the box, onto her hand.

You can see these side by side on the Before & After page — along with a pearl and emerald necklace that became an emerald and diamond ring.

When I'll say no

Part of doing this well is knowing when not to. Before any deposit, I'll tell you plainly if:

— the design won't work with the stones or metal you have — some settings simply can't hold certain stones safely;

— the work would cost more than the result is worth to you;

— the transformation would diminish the piece — some antique or signed jewellery is worth more, and means more, left intact;

— the budget and the brief don't meet.

Then we talk about the alternatives: a repair, a trade-in, or keeping the piece as it is. None of that costs you anything.

How much does it cost to remodel jewellery?

Every transformation is priced individually. Most bespoke and transformation projects fall between CHF 1,200 and CHF 4,000, with no upper limit — the figure reflects the whole project: the stones, the metal and the complexity of the design.

Within that range, the price moves with the metal the new design needs and how much specialist work the stones require. What brings it down is what you already own: your stones are yours, and your gold is reused or credited at market value. That is why a transformation can cost less than the same design made entirely from new materials.

You'll have a clear quote before anything begins. A 50% deposit starts the work; the remaining 50% is due on collection.

How a transformation works

1. Share the piece. Bring it to the boutique at Rue Ancienne 3, Carouge, or send a clear photo. The first consultation is complimentary and commits you to nothing.

2. Design it together. The new piece is designed around what you want to keep. You'll see it in 3D, usually within about a week.

3. Approve it. Adjust anything; nothing is fixed until you say so. Approval and the deposit start the work.

4. In careful hands. Your stones are handled with care at every stage — removal, cleaning, resetting. If a step carries a risk, such as cutting away an old setting, I tell you before it happens.

5. Yours again. Allow four to six weeks. Most clients collect in person; there's something worth witnessing about seeing a familiar stone in an unfamiliar setting for the first time. Every bespoke ring includes one complimentary resizing of up to three sizes.

What to bring to the first consultation

— The piece, or pieces — even broken ones, odd earrings and loose stones.

— Any papers you have: certificates, valuations, receipts.

— Photos of it being worn, if they exist.

— The story, and a rough idea of budget. You don't need to know what you want; that's my job.

Or would a trade-in suit you?

If a piece holds no memories for you — a broken chain, an odd earring, gold from a chapter you'd rather close — you may not want to transform it at all. Bring it in anyway: I'll assess it honestly, and its value becomes credit towards a commission, a transformation or a piece from my collections. Details are on the Trade In Your Old Jewellery page. If the piece does hold memories, trading it in is probably not the right path: a transformation keeps what matters and reshapes the rest.

Frequently asked questions

Can any piece of inherited jewellery be redesigned?

Most can, in some form. Stones can almost always be reset; gold is reused where structurally suitable, or credited. The exceptions are pieces whose value or meaning lies in keeping them exactly as they are — and I'll tell you if yours is one.

Can you use my old gold?

Sometimes. It depends on the carat, the alloy, its condition and any previous solder. Where direct reuse isn't suitable, its market value is credited towards the new piece.

Can I keep part of the original?

Yes. Clients often keep the band and reuse only the stone, or the other way round. Some keep a small piece of the old setting as a keepsake.

Can I combine several pieces into one?

Yes. Stones from several small or broken pieces can come together in one design, and the metal from all of them can be credited towards it.

Do I need to know what I want before I come?

No. Many of my favourite pieces began with someone saying “I don't know exactly what I want.” Bring the piece and the story; the design is my job.

How long does a transformation take?

Design and 3D visualisation within about a week, then four to six weeks after you approve the design.

Can the new ring be resized later?

Many rings can, depending on the design and the setting. Every bespoke ring includes one complimentary resizing of up to three sizes.

Continue the story

An inherited piece carries two stories: the one it already has, and the one it could have with you. A transformation honours both. If there's a box in your drawer, bring it to the boutique in Carouge — or send me a photo — and we'll talk about what it could become.

About the author

Karolina Chabert is the founder and designer of Carolina Chabert. Her path took her from Poland to London and through fifteen years inside Van Cleef & Arpels, Sotheby's, Phillips, Liberty and Harrods before she founded her own brand in 2021 and opened her boutique-atelier in Carouge in 2026. Transforming inherited jewellery into something contemporary is at the heart of her work. Read more on the My Story page.

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